Gabardine
Gabardine is the legendary weatherproof twill fabric invented by Thomas Burberry in 1879 for explorers. Tight 63-degree diagonal weave, smooth face, naturally water resistant. The fabric behind the iconic trench coat, still the gold standard for structured outerwear and formal trousers worldwide.
Weave & Construction
- Weave: 2/1 or 2/2 steep twill, 63 degree prominent diagonal rib
- Construction: Warp-faced, warp count double weft, 100+ warp per inch
- Weight: 200-350 GSM, firm crisp hand, excellent crease retention
- Yarn: Worsted wool 80s, cotton 40/1, poly wool blend, poly cotton
- Finish: Calendered for luster, water repellent optional
Why It Is Different
- Tighter than standard twill or drill, smooth surface hides weave from distance
- Holds sharp crease all day, does not bag at knees like chino
- Windproof and shower proof without coating due to density
- Drapes straight, shows tailoring lines, no bulk
Common Uses
- Outerwear: Trench coats, car coats, bomber jackets, military officer coats
- Formal: Dress trousers, suiting, uniforms, skirts, blazers
- Workwear: Pilot uniforms, corporate wear, hotel staff
Trusted By
- Heritage: Burberry invented gabardine for trench coats in 1879, still uses it
- Luxury: Ralph Lauren, Hugo Boss, Armani use wool gabardine for formal trousers
- Fast Fashion: Zara, H&M, Mango use poly wool gabardine for affordable suits
- Military: US Army, British Army, German Bundeswehr officer dress trousers
- Workwear: Same weave used for Dickies and Carhartt work pants heavy versions
Selection & Care
- Wool gabardine dry clean only, steam press for crease, stores best hanging
- Check angle: true gabardine 63 degree steep, shallow angle is just twill
- Weight: 250 GSM sweet spot for trousers, 300+ for coats
- Quality test: hold to light, no light should pass, tight weave proof